Showing posts with label custom made. Show all posts
Showing posts with label custom made. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Can't Resist That Parisian Chic


Marlene Dietrich embraced men's fashion head-on. She was known to have a gutsy approach in fashion during a time when women rarely wore anything other than dresses or skirts.


THIS FALL, baggy pleated trousers are making a huge comeback. I've got to say, it's not something that all ladies are ready to accept. Any pant with huge hips and thighs and tapers towards the bottom aren't the most flattering on any women's figure...even if you were a 5'10" leggy babe, you'd still look fuller than you really are in pleated trousers.

Men-inspired pleated trousers aren't new news though. Coco Chanel made a ladies' pant suit in the 1930's and German actress/fashion icon, Marlene Dietrich wore it. Since then, pant suits for the ladies have been reworked over and over again to look feminine and modern. But it's no surprise that the women's slim cut suit is nowhere to be seen this year. The classic loose fit trouser is the way to go! And it's no wonder that they dominate the runway--since it's the classic pieces that can stand the test of time.

I personally cannot resist a look that oozes elegance! I raided my mom's closet and I found this pair (see below) hiding in her closet. If they weren't too big for me and they weren't her favourite, I would steal it. You can see that it fits really nicely but it's all an illusion--thanks to some handy bulldog clips. Even though I can't have these, I will be owning a pair in about two weeks time. I'm having mine custom made to look like hers. Yes, I'm serious.

I've figured that since I'm petite, I would benefit from the thinnest and slinkiest or silkiest fabric possible if I'm going to have a go at the pleated pant look. Remember, you want to reduce the amount of fabric possible if you want to look slimm-ER. Looking slim is not an option in pleated pants.

So, here's a few tips that I've observed and figured out if you're daring enough to try this look:

1. Counter the bulkiness of the pants with a very slim top (think bodysuit slim)
2. Wear your highest heels possible
3. Go with dark colours
4. Select a pair that has a HIGH WAIST (that creates the illusion of longer legs)

I picked out some shoes that will go so absolutely freakin' well with this type of pant. Hope you like!



(Parisian Elegance, Parisian Poshness, Parisian Vintage)



Sunday, August 22, 2010

Who Needs Lapels And A Tie When You've Got a Mandarin Collar?

The Mandarin Collar is a style of jacket collar that is inspired by the cheongsam that the Mandarin people wore during Imperial China. In the mid-twentieth century, it was a style worn as an Eastern counterpart to the Western style suit. The short collar stands upright and does not overlap unless it has a button closure. Both men and ladies can wear a jacket with a Mandarin collar.

When you wear a Mandarin collar jacket, a dress shirt with a matching collar is worn. You do not need to wear a tie.

Just like a regular suit jacket, if you use a material with a classic pattern and colour to make your Mandarin collar jacket, it can be dressed up or dressed down to your desire. Black is a good option. Feel free to wear your favourite T-shirt underneath the jacket for a more casual Oriental-inspired urban look.

Kevin, pictured below, is wearing a black Mandarin collar jacket and white Mandarin collar shirt made by Balsam Custom Tailors.

(Mandarin Collar Jacket: polyester/wool blend $399 + HST, Mandarin Collar Shirt: poly/cotton blend $138 + HST)


Converse sneakers and jeans scream "URBAN!"

A necktie is not necessary when you're wearing a Mandarin collar shirt.


An unbuttoned jacket gives a very laidback look. But please feel free to button up your shirt!


Kevin looking so Orientally urban.


Kevin has French cuffs on his Mandarin collar shirt. It's a marvelous example of Eastern style meets Western style. With fashion, anything goes! (But a tie around a Mandarin collar is a big no-no!)

Here's a sample of my photography for this lovely couple. They were on their way to a wedding until I kidnapped them for a 20 minute photoshoot.





Photography by Cindy Wu Photography


Sunday, July 25, 2010

His Jacket...My Obsession (Part I)

When I say "His Jacket", I don't mean anybody's jacket in specific. I'm referring to a ladies' closet staple item called the Boyfriend Blazer. The jacket generally features a straight masculine cut adorned with details commonly found on a men's suit jacket, hence the name "Boyfriend Blazer" (BF blazer). The length of the jacket is usually much longer than a traditional women's blazer.

The BF blazer is versatile and can be paired with almost anything to create that polished but casual look that any girl can pull off. Looking good in a blazer requires little effort. Throw a BF blazer on top of a white t-shirt paired with some skinny jeans and you're ready to go. Try a blazer over a slim cut dress for a classy look. Or be carefree and pull on some comfy leggings. You really can't go wrong with a nicely structured BF blazer. However, be cautious not to wear anything else that's masculine on top of the blazer to avoid really looking like a cross-dresser.

Because they're so versatile, I wear them all year round. Have one you can wear in Spring/Summer and one in Fall/Winter. Stick with lighter colours and light-weight materials in the warmer seasons and darker and heavier materials for the chilly seasons. If you really don't want to put much thought into what blazer to get and you're happy with just one: go for a medium grey. It's a safe colour and goes with anything and everything.

I love blazers and since I wear them a lot, I have to be sure they fit me perfectly. It's very rare that you can buy a ready-made blazer that will fit every part of your upper body. The chest is usually too wide on me and the sleeves are way too long. And usually, the billowiness in the back hides the natural curve of my spine so it makes me look thicker and wider than I really am.

A bad fit just makes you look sloppy! I swear by custom-made and once you've tried it, you will never want to go back to buying ready-made jackets. In the pictures above and to the right, I'm wearing a navy men's style blazer with a bright purple lining (a fabulous choice in colour, don't you think?) custom-made for me to my measurements by Balsam Custom Tailors. I paired it with some high-waist pleated shorts and cuffed sandals.

At Balsam Custom Tailors in Kerrisdale, you are given a fantastic selection of cloths to choose from. From 100% luxury Italian wool to cool and light-weight English mink-cashmere wool to easy-to-care for polyester and wool blends, we're sure to have something that you'll love! You'll also have the option to personalize your jacket, from the shape of the shoulders down to the type of button style. I'll dedicate a post to custom-made jacket styles and cloth type in the near future.

If you're like me and like to play around with fashion, I suggest you go for the most economical option--the polyester wool blend. A small amount of polyester is added to the wool cloth to keep it from wrinkling too easily. And shrinkage in the wash is minimal but I recommend whole-heartedly that you dry-clean your blazers to retain its structured shape.


Here are the details that I requested for my blazer:

Bright purple lining to contrast the deep navy. For me, the colour of the lining is extremely important since I have my sleeves rolled up 90% of the time.


Notch lapel with a button hole (exclusively a men's jacket detail since only men put flowers through the lapel button holes). Top-stitching on the edges of the jacket.


Four sleeve buttons and surgeon's cuff (a slit in the sleeve cuff that actually opens up).



Single-breasted and single button closure (the longer the lapels, the less buttons you'd want on a jacket)


One top-stitched breast pocket.

Info: 20% polyester/80% wool navy blazer ($199 for the standard look), purple polyester lining ($120 for lining fabric & replacement)

Total Cost on Navy Blazer: $319 + HST

(Photography by http://www.cindywuphotography.com/ /Assistant photographer - Nathalie Carter)