Friday, January 14, 2011

Dress Shirt 101: Collar Types


Collar Types: 1) Cut-away Collar 2)Wide Spread Collar 3) Kelly Collar 4) Straight Collar 5) Button Down Collar 6) Rounded Collar 7) Medium Spread Collar 8) Tab Front Collar. Shirt images borrowed from here.

I touched on the topic of cotton t-shirts in the previous post and that gave me an idea to do a subsequent post on it's big brother, the cotton dress shirt. Metaphorically speaking, a dress shirt in the realm of business/smart casual wear is the equivalent of flour used in baking-- it is an absolute essential. Anyone will look professional and presentable in a clean, crisp, white dress shirt.

One of my favourite tasks when I'm at work is being a stylist. Our customers want to know what makes them look good and my job is to help put together shirt and suit components that flatters their figures. Here's where having an "eye" for style comes in handy.

A shirt is made of these components:

1. Collar
2. Pleats/No Pleats
3. Pocket(s)
4. Cuffs
5. Plain Front/Placket Front

One thing you might want to consider when picking out a collar type is the shape of your face. It may benefit you to pick one out that compliments your face but I will be honest and tell you from experience that most people would much rather choose something that is the trend and easy to wear. Or they let the occasion dictate what they should wear--which makes sense.

There are dozens of collar styles out there (fashion is not written in stone so designers are free to change things up a bit) but there are certain types that have remained popular over many decades. Collar 3 and 7 (refer to above picture) are the most commonly worn styles because the spread of the collars allow room for Windsor knots on ties.

Here are some things to keep in mind when selecting a collar type:

Narrow Faces > Pick a wider spread with shorter points to shorten your face. Please refer to Mr.Egg Head in the diagram below. In diagram "A", Mr.Egg Head looks shorter.

Round Faces > Pick a closer spread with longer points to elongate your face. In diagram "B", Mr.Egg Head looks longer.


There really is no rule when it comes to picking a collar. Generally, I tell customers to wear what makes them feel comfortable or is appropriate for the occasion.